Por Victoria Retondaro
Today, luxury goods are the
strictly required symbols of wealth and social status in China. Chinese wealthy
consumers have the cash, and are willing to spend it on what, only some years
ago, was well beyond their reach. While many other markets are flat or
shrinking,
luxury goods are booming in China.
The international advisor and counselor McKinsey expected, in 2010, that by the
end of this year China would overtake Japan as the world’s largest luxury
market, and they were right: purchases by Chinese both at home and abroad
accounts for over one-quarter of the global total.
A rapidly-growing share of Chinese
luxury shoppers are doing their purchases overseas – being Europe among the
top popular destinations (only in 2014 200,000
Chinese ourists visited London). In the last decade, China was
the country that raised the most as a tourist source market, due to an increase of the medium
classes incomes, the decrease of the air tickets prices and a bigger
flexibility to travel abroad.Thanks to this increase, China went
ahead from the seventh position in the ranking of international tourism expense
in 2005 to the first in 2012, according to the statistics of UNWTO (World Tourism Organization).
As tempting as it may be for
brands to target Chinese consumer as they had always targeted Europeans, it’s
quintessential to know them profoundly and have their own characteristics
always in mind. One of the most impactful features that differs luxury
consumers in China from the Western consumers is their youth: 73% of luxury consumers are under 45, compared
to just over a half in the U.S.
China’s love for luxury is rapidly
spreading to every level of consumers, even those who by traditional standards
would not be considered viable target consumers of luxury goods. This creates
new opportunities as well as challenges for luxury goods marketers used to
serve only the very wealthy.
Some misconceptions about the
Chinese consumers need to be removed from the marketers mindset: there is a
generalized stereotype about Chinese consumers’ tastes in luxury, expected to
be obsessed with big logos all over and flashy products. This has recently
started to change, since their tastes are maturing with surprising speed.
Shoppers prefer low-key and understated goods to ones that are embellished with
popular logos.
Another common generalization is
related to counterfeit, although faux luxury does not seem to be disappeared
anytime soon, Chinese consumers are now looking for the real thing, and they
are increasingly willing and able to afford it. According to McKinsey, Chinese
consumers are expressing an increasing appreciation for authentic luxury
products. For instance, the percentage of consumers who said they were willing
to buy fake jewelry has dropped 20% in the last five years.
As an
example of the relevancy these consumers have in Europe, the 2015 Summit of The Walpole British Luxury
Association
(the voice of British luxury, with over 180 prestigious members including
Mulberry, Burberry and Polo Ralph Lauren) was focused on the Eastern Growth,
examining Greater China, Asia-Pacific and the Middle East. During this Summit,
where British brands, tourist destinations, and retailers discussed China’s
outbound tourism boom and what it means for the Western, some interesting key
rules on how to target the average Chinese tourist were exposed.
To start
with, differentiation is a must. Speakers noted that more sophisticated
Chinese tourist-shoppers are now looking for different brands without a large
footprint back home, with a particular focus on quality and craftsmanship.
Speakers cited research indicating that Chinese
outbound shoppers make the majority of their purchase decisions pre-travel,
making it difficult for brands to influence sales when on the ground. In
consequence, it's of highly importance to catch travelers' attention online
before they leave China. Numerous presenters at the Summit agree on the
indispensability of WeChat nowadays. This Chinese social media is becoming the
most relevant tool to reach and influence Chinese tourist-shoppers, it is now
the most important Chinese social platform for everything from push-based
marketing to CRM. It seems that many Chinese tourists use this app to gather
information, comment and share their opinion about services, products,
activities and destinations. Since almost every Chinese have a WeChat account is a powerful tool to reach a large number of travelers.
WeChat enables brands to offer a personalized treatment to its followers and
engage them.
Besides the implementation of WeChat,
marketers should be aware of online discussions about them, tracking and
reacting with the help of a social media agency. Bloggers have also prominent
roles when buying a luxury product, identified influential bloggers should be
educated by a brand in order to become a relevant online ambassador.
Finally, the in-store
experience is proved to be increasingly important in this market as the key touch point for
consumers making decisions about buying luxury. The luxury fashion buyer’s
decision is highly influenced by what they experience in person: trying the
product on, talking to a salesperson and how products are displayed are
essential when purchasing.
Luxury marketers should deploy
sales staff that are familiar with the latest fashion trends, exhibit
exceptional levels of patience with Chinese shoppers who prefer to linger in
the store, and are helpful without rushing customers or applying sales
pressure. Louis Vuitton has figured this out, assigning a specialist to spend
time educating luxury shoppers about the story of the brand, the company’s deep
European roots, and the way they handcraft leather goods.
Many luxury brands are also
investing in multi-tiered customer loyalty programs that are often linked to
global IT systems so they can create a uniform picture of their customers
wherever they shop. With this information they can create tailored marketing
campaigns.
A large part of the allure of
luxury, particularly in durable product categories which preserve their value
over time such as jewelry, is the opportunity to share in the rich cultural
heritage that is associated with a brand. This concept is rapidly catching on
with Chinese consumers of luxury, and is playing a major role in how marketers
assemble their strategies. Many leading brands are promoting their company
history and product craftsmanship. Several have organized small “museums” –
sharing the history of the brand and showcasing designs from many decades ago.
Along the Summit, CLA
(China Luxury Advisors) remarked on three elementary points for brands new to
the China market: Timing, Target, and Tag.
- Timing: If a brand is currently unknown in
China, it’s probably not a good time to enter the market with a massive
marketing and offline retail push.
- Target: Instead of looking to change the
consumer culture in China, a brand should take advantage of consumer trends. If
Chinese consumers are making their majority of luxury purchases outside of
China, sell to them outside of China.
- Tag: A significant number of Chinese
shoppers are less concerned with price than they are about value, meaning the
brands that offer the best service and products, and whose CRM boosts a loyal
relationship, will remain popular regardless of pricing strategy.
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